VA Reed Conversion
  Since introduction of my reed engines into the Mouse I arena, many have asked me produce an engine but, right how it's cost prohibaitive but, I think I've come up with a solution using a current production engine, the VA.This modification requires some machining experience and access to a lathe and mill.
  Machine a threaded adaptor to the print, this will be glued in with JB Weld after you've removed .050" from the back of the engine case. This adaptor will work for either the metal or new plastic reed valve version tanks. Expand a ballon inside the shaft bore to keep epoxy from the bearing surface when filling the front intake hole, use tape over needle valve holes to keep from flowing out. Tape over intake on shaft and also fill with with JB Weld.
  After 24 hours, fixture on a mill to remove excess adaptor material from sleeve bore so rod can be slipped over crank pin, a 1/4" end mill is used , feed 1.375" down and on a CNC or rotory table cut a 180 degree arc with a radius of .125 ( as measured from the centerline of the cutter ), from right to left toward the back of the case. Re-fixture so standard Cox bolt pattern can be drilled and tapped for 2-56 threads on back, pattern has .533" seperation.
  Back to the lathe so the nose can be turned down for spring clearance, turn with the feed at a 24 degree included angle, this will match the web angle. Use a Norvell spring and secure by bolting to the original mounting lugs with a machined cover plate. The cover plate has a L shaped groove milled into it and retain it against the mounting lugs with 2-56 screws. Make sure to leave at least 3/8" from prop to spring hook.
  Note: Leave at least .030" clearance between adaptor and crank pin as shown in photo.  
  Photo above shows epoxy filled crank, make sure the excess epoxy flash is removed so it doesn't come loose and bind the front end, use a file and knife.
     Under Construction