Since I've got crazy with this racing bit I figure I'd add a 'Scale Racer' to my growing fleet. I like being a little different in my aproach to model subject and when I saw Tim Gillot's plans to the Shoestring I said to myself "this is the one". Although, when I first laid eyes on the them I thought to myself, man what a pain to build, there's got to be an easier way, I think there is and I've layed it out here.
  Tim has some neat ways to install an aluminum engine crutch and gear pad, sandwiched between ply and balsa laminates, into the fus. I'ts alittle complicated for my tastes so, I'm going with a somewhat old fashioned approach, hardwoods, ply and balsa.  
  My first task was to redraw the outline and integrate a hollow fus with warren truss constuction. The right photo shows a good way of transposing a copied section of the plans to the wood by, using 'Stik'N Post'. Take the cut copies and coat the backside with the product and fasten to your wood and then cut on your scroll saw, for the hardwoods, or use a knife on balsa.
  I'm using a 1/4" oak crutch and 9 lb balsa for the back end. The oak can be had at 'Home Depots', in my area for a resonable price and has worked well in several applications, in the past, such as 1/2A Proto and my Mouse planes. Once the crutch was done, as shown in the next photo, I then laminated 1/16" ply on the nose from the highpoint forward on both sides and 1/16" 4 lb. balsa on the back with epoxy. These are applied at a 45 degree from horizonal plane and in opposite directions. Then another lamination is applied, with .03 oz carbon veil sandwiched between the smaller ply front section and balsa. The balsa is layed down at a 15 degree angle fron the horizon this time, this will give a super stiff  and lightweight structure. The troughs are then cut for the pushrod and fuel shutoff on a mill. The fus shown in the next picture weights in at 135.6 gm., not too bad I think.
  The wing was constructed with 5 lb C-grain balsa and cross laminated the grain on the top and bottom. The total thickness is 3/8" with a 2/3rds, 1/3rd semi-semetrical airfoil, so I used 1/4" balsa on top and 1/8" on the bottom. I started with the grain on the top front straight and then run the grain in the same direction as the trailing edge like the FAI guys do on their team racers. Then using the 1/8" balsa I ran the grain straight across on the bottom on the trailing edge and matched the grain, even with the leading edge. The surfaces were doped with a coat of 50% thinned nitrate dope before the epoxy was applied, this will keep the glue from wicking into the grain and provide a stronger lamination.
  After the structure has dried, I used a mill to slice a groove .015" by 1/4" deep for  plywood strips to protect the outside edges and  routed the grooves for the flying wires, pushrod, and an area for the bellcrank . I also cutout a pocket for 1/16" plywood top and bottom spars used to secure the bellcrank. I used a Fox 2" bellcrank and added some botton extentions for attaching the wires to about 3" from the fus. The wires will be accessed through some slots cut into the bottom side of the wing. The finished, carved wing weighted in at 90 gm without tip weight which, I'll be adding in 10 gm which should be more than enough.
  The tail feathers were constucted from 5 lb C-grain balsa and I used an old Midwest control-horn and I'm going to try those new, small Kaven hinges. The slits were also put in for the plywood protection strips around the outside. Weight for the stab and elevator is 10 gm and the rudder was 3.4 gm.
  I assembled the pieces using epoxy and added a 8.6 gm 7lb balsa cowl, installed the blind-nuts for engine mounting and the 1/6" tail-skid. The total weight for the assembied structure came out to 267.5 gm as shown in the next picture.
  Before any glassing is to take place I'll give the model a coat of 50% thinned nitrate dope to keep the epoxy from wicking into the balsa. I believe this process it critical because, epoxies tend to bleed vital chemicals, needed for a proper cure, into the capularies of the balsa very easly, and this seems to help get a better bond and I tend to use less  resin, keeping the weight down. I glassed the nose section and wing joints with .5 oz cloth
  I'm going to finish in a traditional 'stunt' style starting with three coats of nitrate then, attach 00 silkspan with thinner followed by two coats of nitrate. This is the point where I add the filets, and mixture of epoxy and micro-ballons, when cured, sand with 100 grit to remove the shine and then another coat of nitrate. At this point I've added 25 gm.
   Color is applied now, I've gone with the tradition Shoestring paint sceme and airbrushed on the details. The paint masks were layed out on a computer with Adobe Illistrator then taken to a sign shop for cutting out. One can save if you do the layout work yourself, the cost for the mask for three airplanes, of different types, cost $26 for 2 sq. ft. now put on  some ink lines and a clear coat, and I guess the engine and stuff, it'll be ready to test.  

  Finished model with 3rd place hardware form 2001 NATS, flying weight is 20.88 oz with Nelson engine.