On the right, is the fixture assembled and ready to go into the tank. I'm using anodes 1/4" dia. for .40's down to .15's, 1/8" for .049's. I've partially taped off the the anode on the top and bottom to eliminate any extra throwing of the plate, helps to maintain a consistant thickness and, the anode is also threaded through a hole in the bottom portion of the fixture to keep it centered.
  The lead anode when purchased is wound on a spool, in order to straighten, cut off a length and roll it between to metal plates. In the artical, it says to treat the anode so it develops a layer of lead peroxide ( brown ) instead of lead chromate when left untreated, which can restrict the throwing of the current. I haven't tried this yet, for now, I just clean the anode off with a Scotch Bright pad between uses.
  The thiefs are made from 360 brass, anywhere between .200"-.300" thick, the I.D. a couple of throu smaller than to bore so you don't have any creap the chrome over the head sealing surface and the O.D. designed to fit your fixture and drop in but not to small as to cause  misaglinment or off center to the bore. After  plating job just drop them into some muratic acid to remove the chrome and your ready for the next job.
  Mixing of the chemicals is pretty straight forward, since I'm using a smaller bath, I just cut down the amount of chrome crystals to keep the same ratio to water about 24% by volume to distilled water. I did not use battery acid as the instructions say, instead I used 98.7% sulfuric to make a 100:1 ratio and I plate with the bath at 125-130 degrees F. This is what is reccomended for porous chrome.
  Cleaning is straight forward in the artical, 2 min. in the caustic under current at about 1 amp, desmutt, dips in the various acids, depending on what you plating, for no more than 15 sec. with fresh water rinses between dips. I have a 2000 ml beaker set up with fresh distilled water as my rinse, I recommend using distilled water for everything to avoid contamination.
  The next photo shows the tank in action, plating an AAC liner for my BTR hey, you have to experiment with something! After cleaning and dipping in the various acids and zincate, it's installed in the fixture and lowered in the tank. I reverse etch for 15 sec. at 2 amps, reverse the leads ( always red to lead when plating ) ramp up slowly, 2 amps for 1 min., 4 amps for another min., then to 10 amps for 1 hour, this should build on .001" of chrome per side. After the hour is up, I'll turn off the power, switch the leads, reverse etch again for 15 sec. at half the amps I plated with.
  Below is a pic of the brass shim stock after plating, just shoots right through those ports, don't it?
Chroming, page 2
  Below is the finished plate job right from the tank, before honing. Pretty, ain't it?
 One thing I always wondered was, how come you don't see that discoloration from the acids and zincate on Henry's AAC liners or the F2C stuff? Well it seems they either mask/tape/shield them off or, leave a bit of stock to machine off later.
  The left pic shows off the finish after honing. One thing I've noticed, this stuff is hard! I was having a problem so I did a liner for Vic Garner and ask him to hone it out, he did and confirmed it's hardness but, he got through it, I had to slow done the speed of my hone to get it to cut, seems that the stones were glazing up, and would stop cutting because of the speed I was runnning. One tricky part of the operation is getting it round and with the correct taper, honing is more of an art than science and maybe I'll get the touch down.
  E-mail me if you have any experience in chroming AAC's and we could compare notes and maybe learn from one another